I was introduced to Korean skincare, or K-beauty as it's also called, by a friend from Korea several years ago. At that time, it wasn't the products that fascinated me as much as the routine itself. Who hasn't heard about the extensive regimen involved in Korean skincare? Back then, about ten years ago, my "normal" skincare routine had at most four steps if I included an SPF. In contrast, my Korean friend's routine had around eleven steps. Eleven steps! Can you believe it?
Today, my routine has advanced, much as I get older and can afford much more than I could ten years ago. Or maybe it’s that I’m aging and my skin demands more? Either way, my routine has evolved to about six steps. While that may still seem like a lot to some, it's still not as elaborate as my friend's eleven steps. So, what exactly is a Korean skincare routine? What steps are involved and why? Will it give you porcelain skin? Or is it just a waste of time?
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Oil-Based Cleanser Like most routines, the Korean one starts with cleansing the face. The first time I encountered oil-based cleansing was through Korean skincare. This type of cleanser is designed to remove makeup and the dirt accumulated throughout the day. It’s used to dissolve the day's impurities.
- Products: Purito All Green Cleansing Oil, Heimish All Clean Balm
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Foaming Cleanser To really cleanse the skin, a lighter foaming cleanser is used to ensure the skin is thoroughly clean.
- Products: Gallinée Foaming Facial Cleanser, Heimish All Green Foam
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Exfoliation A form of peeling product, if needed. It's best to use chemical exfoliation rather than physical exfoliation, as the former is gentler on the skin.
- Product: Cosrx AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid
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Toner After cleansing, a toner is used to balance the skin’s pH level, calming the skin and bringing it back to its “normal” state.
- Product: Purito Centella Green Level Calming Toner
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Essence This step can be confusing for many, as toners and essences are similar products. An essence is, according to my Korean friend, a hybrid between a toner and a serum—heavier than a toner but lighter than a serum.
- Products: Innisfree Green Tea Balancing Lotion EX, Purito Fermented Complex 94 Boosting Essence
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Ampoule Ampoules are similar to serums, containing a high concentration of active ingredients. They are used as a boost in skincare to add extra power to the serum that follows.
- Products: Cosrx Centella Blemish Ampoule, Cosrx Propolis Light Ampoule
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Serum Serums contain higher concentrations of active ingredients used to address specific skin concerns. Consider what your skin needs and choose a serum that targets that.
- Products: Purito Centella Green Level Buffet Serum, Bellflower Idebenone Brightening Serum
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Sheet Mask Now comes the time-consuming step. After applying serum, it’s time to use a sheet mask to allow all the previous steps to truly absorb into the skin and to give an extra boost for a specific skin concern. Leave the sheet mask on for as long as you can to maximize its effects.
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Eye Cream It’s now time to protect the delicate skin around the eyes with a nourishing cream. Be careful not to use a cream that is too heavy, as this can cause milia—small white bumps around the eyes that are hard to remove.
- Product: Pure & Care Eye Cream - Vitamin A
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Moisturizer It was only when I encountered Korean skincare that I understood the purpose of creams. This step is meant to lock in all the previous steps, not to treat the skin, as the earlier steps do that. Choose a cream that helps protect the skin from external factors while sealing in the benefits of the previous steps.
- Products: Weleda Skin Food, Jumiso Have a Good Cream Snail & Centella
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SPF Are you tired of my constant reminders about SPF yet? Good, because this step is vital. Koreans also consider this a crucial step, not just for protection against skin cancer but also because it is proven to guard against premature aging.
- Product: Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun
As you can see, there are many steps, and some are time-consuming. It’s not logical for everyone to follow an eleven-step routine. Even for me, it doesn’t always make sense, but sometimes, when I have the time and need a break from daily life, it feels perfectly logical. I use this routine similarly to how others practice yoga—it gives me peace of mind and a moment to dedicate entirely to myself. And to answer the question of whether you can achieve perfect skin by following this regimen religiously, honestly, I don’t know. Is there even such a thing as perfect skin? Or is it just an experience we perceive in others but miss when looking at ourselves?