The Ultimate Guide to Skincare Humectants: Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin & More

The Ultimate Hydration Magnet

This famous acid has been around for a while and has risen in popularity due to its amazing moisture holding properties. It is not an exfoliant, it is a humectant - it attracts moisture and binds it to the skin. Hyaluronic acid exists naturally in our skin and plays a big part in our skins overall health. High molecular hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin and skin barrier. Low molecular hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin on a slightly deeper level but still works mainly on the top layer of the skin. Low molecular hyaluronic acid has shown to help the skin repair by increasing its self defence.

How does it work? Hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge. It attracts moisture and binds it to the skin and by doing so boosts hydration levels. As hydration is increased, skin cells are happier and can regenerate and repair themselves.

Side effects: Side effects are rare, but like any ingredient - it can cause irritation in some skin. Ultra low molecular hyaluronic acid can cause irritation in some. Another point to remember is that when using hyaluronic acid, it is important to seal it in with a moisturiser as hyaluronic acid alone can evaporate from the skin, drawing out moisture leaving your skin dry and dehydrated.

Choosing a product: Serums are extremely popular and effective. Toners can also add a hydration boost but remember to lock it in with a moisturiser after. Moisturisers containing hyaluronic acid are also available but look for gentle ingredients that are non irritating and do not contain alcohol as this can weaken the hyaluronic acid and cause it to evaporate.

Sodium hyaluronate is a popular ingredient found in many skincare products claiming they contain hyaluronic acid. Sodium hyaluronate is sodium form of hyaluronic acid. They are very similar to each other with the same skin hydrating effects. Sodium hyaluronate is said to be slightly more stable and cheaper for manufacturers so that is why it is seen more on ingredients lists.

Best suited for:

• All skin types
• Dry, dehydrated
• Mature
• Sun damaged
• After being in the sun

PRODUCTS with Hyaluronic Acid >

The Deep-Diving Hydration Hero

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, and it’s one of the most effective and widely used humectants in modern skincare. It functions the same way as Hyaluronic Acid — drawing in water and binding it to the skin — but because its molecular structure is smaller and more stable, it can penetrate deeper layers of the epidermis to deliver longer-lasting hydration.

This ingredient helps maintain skin elasticity, plumpness, and overall smoothness while strengthening the skin’s natural moisture barrier. It’s often used alongside Hyaluronic Acid to provide multi-level hydration, ensuring the skin feels soft and hydrated both on the surface and from within.

How does it work? Sodium Hyaluronate attracts and binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, acting like a deep moisture reservoir within the skin. It draws hydration into the deeper layers while also preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The result is smoother, plumper, and more resilient skin that stays hydrated for longer periods.

Because it’s more stable than pure Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate resists oxidation and degradation, making it ideal for both daily-use serums and long-lasting moisturisers.

Side effects: Sodium Hyaluronate is very gentle and well tolerated by all skin types. However, like Hyaluronic Acid, it should always be followed with a moisturiser to lock in hydration and prevent evaporation — especially in dry climates where it can otherwise pull moisture out of the skin.

Choosing a product: Look for serums or moisturisers that list Sodium Hyaluronate high on the ingredients list. It pairs beautifully with ceramides, glycerin, and squalane for comprehensive hydration. Many formulations combine both Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate for multi-layer moisture delivery — surface and deep.

Best suited for:

• All skin types
• Dry, dehydrated, or mature skin
• After sun exposure
• Daily use for long-term hydration and plumpness

-

PRODUCTS with Sodium Hyaluronate >

The Barrier Booster

Glycerin is one of the oldest and most researched skincare ingredients — a true workhorse humectant that has stood the test of time. It has been used in medicine and cosmetics for centuries, thanks to its incredible ability to draw moisture into the skin and hold it there. Affordable, stable, and safe for nearly everyone, glycerin remains a foundation of effective skincare formulations.

How does it work? Glycerin is hygroscopic, which means it has a natural attraction to water. Once applied, it draws water from the environment and from the deeper layers of the skin into the stratum corneum, the skin’s outermost layer. By boosting hydration here, glycerin plumps up skin cells, smooths roughness, and helps repair cracks in the barrier. In fact, studies show that glycerin not only hydrates but also improves the skin’s resilience to environmental stressors and supports healing of compromised skin.

Side effects: Glycerin is one of the gentlest humectants available. Side effects are rare, though in very high concentrations it can feel sticky or tacky. In extremely dry climates, if not paired with occlusives, glycerin may theoretically pull water out of deeper layers of the skin, but this effect is debated and not a major concern in well-formulated products.

Choosing a product: The beauty of glycerin is that it’s everywhere — cleansers, toners, serums, moisturisers, masks. The key is concentration. For real results, look for glycerin high up in the ingredient list, ideally within the first 3–5 ingredients. Paired with other humectants like hyaluronic acid or panthenol, glycerin becomes even more effective. Products like hydrating toners and serums often showcase it prominently.

Best suited for:

• All skin types, including sensitive
• Dehydrated and dry skin
• Barrier-impaired skin needing repair
• Anyone seeking affordable, reliable hydration

-

PRODUCTS with Glycerin >

The Repairing Humectant

Panthenol has earned its place as one of skincare’s most soothing and restorative humectants. Known as Pro-Vitamin B5, it is widely used in dermatology, wound-healing ointments, and cosmetic formulations because of its dual ability to deeply hydrate and calm the skin. Beyond simply binding water, panthenol actively supports barrier repair and reduces irritation, making it a go-to for sensitive and compromised skin.

How does it work? When applied topically, panthenol converts into pantothenic acid — Vitamin B5 — a vital nutrient for skin health. Its main action is to attract and hold water in the stratum corneum, boosting hydration and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). But panthenol goes a step further: it improves barrier recovery after irritation, accelerates healing, and has proven anti-inflammatory effects. This makes it particularly helpful after sunburn, cosmetic procedures, or flare-ups of sensitivity.

Side effects: Panthenol is considered extremely safe and non-irritating, even for sensitive or atopic skin. Rarely, allergic reactions may occur, but this is uncommon. Its mild nature makes it an excellent choice for people who struggle with reactivity to stronger actives.

Choosing a product: Panthenol is commonly found in serums, moisturisers, and toners marketed as “calming” or “barrier-repairing.” It often appears alongside other soothing ingredients like allantoin, centella asiatica, or ceramides for a synergistic effect. Concentrations can vary, but even low levels deliver benefits. For very sensitive or compromised skin, look for products where panthenol is highlighted as a key active, such as post-procedure creams or recovery balms.

Best suited for:

• Sensitive and reactive skin
• Red, irritated, or inflamed skin
• Dry and dehydrated skin
• Skin recovering from procedures (peels, laser, sunburn)
• Barrier-compromised skin in need of repair

-

PRODUCTS with Panthenol >

The Multitasking Moisture Molecule

Urea is a naturally occurring component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF), making it one of the most skin-identical humectants in skincare. It is unique because it not only draws water into the skin but, at higher concentrations, also helps soften and loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. This dual action makes it a dermatologist favorite for everything from facial hydration to treating stubborn rough patches on the body.

How does it work? At low concentrations (2–5%), urea acts purely as a hydrator, pulling water into the skin to improve comfort, plumpness, and elasticity.

At higher concentrations (10% and above), urea also softens and smooths dry or thickened skin by helping dead cells shed more easily. This makes it especially effective for treating flaky skin conditions, rough elbows, or cracked heels.

Side effects: Urea is generally very well tolerated. At higher strengths, it may cause mild stinging or tingling, especially if applied to broken or irritated skin. For this reason, stronger urea products are usually intended for body care, while gentle facial formulas stick to lower percentages.

Choosing a product:

• Low strength (2–5%) → Found in facial creams, serums, and daily moisturisers for hydration.
• Medium strength (5–10%) → Common in body lotions targeting dryness and flaking.
• High strength (10–30%) → Used in thick creams for rough skin on heels, hands, elbows, or skin conditions like eczema and keratosis pilaris.
  
  For best results, look for formulas combining urea with other humectants like glycerin or with lipids like ceramides for barrier repair.

Best suited for:

• Very dry, rough, or flaky skin
• Eczema-prone or mature skin
• Thickened or calloused skin on hands, feet, elbows
• Anyone who needs both hydration and gentle smoothing in one ingredient

PRODUCTS with Urea >

The Gentle Protector

Betaine is a naturally derived ingredient, most often sourced from sugar beets, that works as both a humectant and an osmolyte — meaning it helps cells manage water balance and stay plump even under stress. It’s gentle, soothing, and ideal for sensitive skin, making it a quiet hero in many hydrating formulations.

How does it work? As a humectant, betaine draws water molecules into the stratum corneum, improving hydration and preventing dryness. But its real strength lies in its role as an osmolyte: it helps skin cells adapt to changes in water content, protecting them from dehydration caused by environmental stressors like heat, wind, or pollution. This makes betaine particularly useful for keeping the skin balanced and comfortable in fluctuating climates.

Side effects: Betaine is extremely safe and non-irritating. Because of its gentle nature, it’s often included in products for sensitive or reactive skin. Side effects are rare, and it is well tolerated even by compromised skin.

Choosing a product: Betaine is commonly found in moisturisers, cleansers, toners, and serums designed for hydration and soothing. It often appears alongside other humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid for a synergistic effect. Look for it in calming or barrier-supporting formulas, where it helps balance hydration without heaviness.

Best suited for:

• Sensitive or easily irritated skin
• Dehydrated skin
• Skin exposed to harsh or changing environments (cold, heat, wind, pollution)
• Anyone seeking a gentle, balancing humectant

-

PRODUCTS with Betaine >

The Long-Lasting Moisture Magnet

Saccharide Isomerate is often marketed as a “moisture magnet” — and for good reason. Derived from plant-based sugars, it has a unique ability to bind tightly to the skin, delivering hydration that lasts far beyond application. In fact, studies show it can keep the skin hydrated for up to 72 hours, even after cleansing. This makes it one of the most effective long-term humectants available.

How does it work? Unlike some humectants that simply sit on the surface, saccharide isomerate has a special affinity for skin proteins in the stratum corneum, the very top layer of skin). It forms a strong bond, meaning it doesn’t rinse off easily. Instead, it continuously attracts and retains water, replenishing the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). This helps restore smoothness, elasticity, and comfort, particularly in very dry or mature skin.

Side effects: Saccharide isomerate is considered very safe and suitable for sensitive skin. Because of its gentle nature, irritation is extremely rare.

Choosing a product: This ingredient is most often found in serums, moisturisers, and hydrating masks. It’s usually highlighted on packaging with claims like “72-hour hydration” or “long-lasting moisture.” While concentrations vary, its benefits are noticeable even at lower levels, especially when combined with other humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin.

Best suited for:

• Dry to very dry skin
• Mature skin prone to dehydration
• Skin that feels tight or uncomfortable after cleansing
• Anyone looking for hydration that lasts well beyond a single application

-

PRODUCTS with Saccharide Isomerate >

The Natural Moisture Factor

Sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is a naturally occurring component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). It plays a vital role in keeping the outermost layer of skin hydrated and elastic. Unlike some synthetic humectants, sodium PCA is already present in healthy skin, which makes it highly compatible and effective as a topical ingredient.

How does it work? Sodium PCA is a hygroscopic salt, meaning it attracts and holds water molecules. By binding water in the stratum corneum, it helps keep the skin plump, supple, and flexible. It is particularly effective at preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), helping the skin maintain comfort and balance. Because sodium PCA is skin-identical, it integrates seamlessly into the skin’s hydration system.

Side effects: Sodium PCA is extremely safe, gentle, and non-irritating. It is well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Choosing a product: Sodium PCA is often included in hydrating serums, creams, and toners. It is commonly part of blends designed to mimic the skin’s NMF, often alongside amino acids, urea, and other humectants. While you won’t always see it highlighted as a “hero ingredient” on packaging, its presence in a formula is a strong indicator of hydration support.

Best suited for:

• Dehydrated skin
• Mature skin prone to tightness or dullness
• Barrier-compromised or sensitive skin
• Anyone wanting to restore skin’s natural hydration balance

-

PRODUCTS with Sodium PCA >

The Microbiome Balancer

Inulin is a plant-derived fibre most commonly extracted from chicory root. In skincare, it acts as both a humectant and a prebiotic, meaning it not only binds water to the skin but also helps support a healthy microbiome. With the skin barrier and microbiome being central to skin health, inulin is increasingly found in modern formulations designed for sensitive, reactive, or environmentally stressed skin.

How does it work? As a humectant, inulin attracts and holds water molecules in the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer), keeping skin hydrated and comfortable. But its most unique function is as a prebiotic: it provides “food” for beneficial bacteria on the skin while helping to reduce the growth of harmful microorganisms. A balanced microbiome supports barrier integrity, reduces sensitivity, and helps skin defend itself against pollution and external aggressors.

Side effects: Inulin is very gentle and non-irritating. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, and has little to no record of adverse effects. Because it is mild, it may not deliver as dramatic a hydration boost as some other humectants, but it excels in barrier and microbiome support.

Choosing a product: Inulin is most often found in serums, moisturisers, and masks that focus on barrier repair, microbiome balance, or sensitive skin care. It pairs well with other humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid) and soothing agents (like centella asiatica).

Best suited for:

• Sensitive or reactive skin
• Barrier-compromised skin
• Those seeking microbiome-supporting skincare
• Anyone looking for hydration plus skin balance

PRODUCTS with Inulin >

The Soothing Hydrator

Carboxymethyl beta-glucan is a modified form of beta-glucan, a sugar molecule derived from oats, yeast, or mushrooms. By altering its structure, this ingredient becomes more water-soluble and easier to use in skincare formulations, while retaining the well-known hydrating and soothing properties of beta-glucan. It’s especially valued for sensitive and reactive skin, where it provides both comfort and barrier support.

How does it work? Like other humectants, carboxymethyl beta-glucan binds water molecules to the stratum corneum, boosting hydration levels and improving skin suppleness. But it does more than just hydrate: beta-glucans are known for their anti-inflammatory effects, calming redness and irritation while enhancing skin repair. They also act as antioxidants, protecting skin against environmental stressors. This makes carboxymethyl beta-glucan a multitasking humectant that hydrates, soothes, and strengthens the skin simultaneously.

Side effects: This ingredient is considered extremely safe and non-irritating. It is particularly suitable for those with compromised or highly sensitive skin, as it reduces the risk of irritation while improving comfort.

Choosing a product: Carboxymethyl beta-glucan is typically found in calming serums, moisturisers, and after-sun treatments. It is also used in formulations designed for post-procedure care, such as after peels or laser treatments, because of its ability to reduce redness and promote healing. Look for it in products marketed for “sensitive” or “soothing” benefits.

Best suited for:

• Sensitive and reactive skin
• Red, irritated, or inflamed skin
• Post-procedure recovery (peels, laser, sun exposure)
• Dry or dehydrated skin needing hydration plus comfort

-

PRODUCTS with Carboxymethyl Beta-glucan >

The Skin’s Own Hydration System

Natural Moisturizing Factors, or NMF, are the skin’s built-in hydration system. They are made up of amino acids, sugars, salts, urea, and organic acids that naturally attract and hold water in the stratum corneum, keeping the skin supple, elastic, and resilient. Over time, however, the levels of NMF decline — with age, through harsh cleansing, over-exfoliation, or exposure to dry air and UV light. That is why applying NMF topically in skincare is so effective: it replenishes what the skin has lost and boosts hydration beyond natural levels, helping the barrier recover and stay strong.

How does it work? NMF molecules are hygroscopic — they pull water into the stratum corneum and help hold it there. When applied topically, an NMF complex restores hydration balance, smooths roughness, and strengthens the barrier. Unlike single humectants, an NMF complex offers a broad-spectrum hydration approach, supplying the skin with multiple components it recognises as “self.”

Side effects: Because NMF is skin-identical, it is extremely safe and well tolerated by all skin types. Irritation is rare, making it an excellent option even for sensitive or compromised skin.

Choosing a product: Look for NMF complexes in moisturisers, serums, and barrier-repair creams. They are often marketed as “skin-identical hydration” or “biomimetic hydration.” These products usually combine NMF with emollients like ceramides and fatty acids for complete barrier support.

Best suited for:

• All skin types
• Dry or dehydrated skin
• Mature skin with declining natural hydration
• Barrier-compromised or over-cleansed skin
• Anyone wanting to restore skin’s natural balance

-

PRODUCTS with NMF Complex >