Occlusives: A Skincare Guide Explaining the Benefits and Uses
Occlusives are the final layer of defense in effective skincare — the protective seal that locks in hydration, shields against external stressors, and supports lasting barrier health.
Where humectants attract water and emollients smooth and soften the skin’s surface, occlusives trap that hydration inside, forming a thin film that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Think of occlusives as the protective topcoat in your skincare routine — ensuring that everything beneath it (hydrating serums, nourishing oils, barrier creams) stays exactly where it needs to be to work effectively.
Whether you’re dealing with extreme dryness, irritation, or environmental stress, occlusives are essential for rebuilding comfort and preventing dehydration. From classic petrolatum to modern silicones and natural waxes, these ingredients create the crucial barrier between your skin and the outside world.
Explore each occlusive below to understand how it works, its benefits, and how to choose the right one for your routine.
PETROLATUM
The Classic Protector
Seals in moisture, strengthens the barrier, and protects compromised skin from dehydration and irritation.
Petrolatum — more commonly known as petroleum jelly — is one of the most effective and time-tested occlusive ingredients in skincare. It forms a protective film over the skin’s surface that locks in moisture, prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and shields against environmental stressors.
Unlike humectants that attract water or emollients that soften and smooth, petrolatum acts as a sealant — trapping hydration within the upper layers of the epidermis to promote healing, comfort, and barrier resilience.
How does it work? Petrolatum creates a semi-occlusive barrier that allows oxygen to pass through while reducing water evaporation by up to 99%. This keeps the skin’s moisture locked in and helps restore the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin).
It also supports the natural healing process by maintaining an optimal environment for repair — protecting against friction, wind, and pollutants. Because it is chemically inert, petrolatum doesn’t react with actives or irritate the skin, making it safe for even the most sensitive or post-procedure complexions.
Side effects: Petrolatum is generally hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic. However, its thick texture can feel heavy or greasy, particularly for those with oily or acne-prone skin. In humid climates, it may feel occlusive if applied over large areas.
Choosing a product with Petrolatum: For skincare use, always look for white USP-grade petrolatum, which is the purest and most refined form. It’s commonly found in healing ointments, barrier balms, and lip care products.
For enhanced results, combine petrolatum-based formulas with humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid) and emollients (like ceramides or squalane) to deliver complete hydration and barrier repair.
Best suited for:
- Severely dry, cracked, or chapped skin
- Post-procedure or irritated skin
- Lips, hands, elbows, or heels
- Harsh, cold, or windy climates
MINERAL OIL
The Classic Moisture Seal
Forms a protective barrier that locks in hydration, softens rough skin, and shields against environmental stressors.
Mineral oil is one of the most well-researched and dermatologist-approved occlusives in skincare. Derived from purified petroleum, it works by forming a smooth, transparent film over the skin that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restores softness and flexibility.
Despite its simple composition, mineral oil remains one of the most effective ingredients for protecting dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is chemically inert, meaning it does not react with actives, clog pores, or trigger irritation — making it safe for even the most reactive complexions.
Modern cosmetic-grade mineral oil (white mineral oil) is highly refined and non-comedogenic, distinct from industrial or unpurified versions.
How does it work? Mineral oil creates a semi-occlusive film on the skin that significantly reduces moisture evaporation while maintaining breathability. This protective layer helps the skin retain water and supports the natural healing process, especially when the barrier is weakened by dryness, exfoliation, or external stress.
Because it’s inert, mineral oil also acts as a carrier base, helping spread other skincare ingredients evenly and improving product texture. It’s commonly used in cleansers, ointments, and moisturisers for its smoothing, protective qualities.
Side effects: Mineral oil is hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, and non-irritating for nearly all skin types. However, those with very oily or acne-prone skin may prefer lighter occlusives, as its texture can feel heavy in humid climates or when layered over multiple emollients.
Choosing a product with Mineral Oil: Opt for products containing white USP- or cosmetic-grade mineral oil, which meet the highest purification standards. It’s commonly found in creams, ointments, cleansing oils, and barrier repair balms.
For optimal results, pair mineral oil with humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid) and emollients (like ceramides or squalane) to create a multi-layered hydration system that attracts, binds, and seals moisture effectively.
Best suited for:
- Severely dry, flaky, or cracked skin
- Post-procedure or compromised barrier
- Sensitive or reactive complexions
- Hands, elbows, and body areas prone to roughness
- Harsh, dry, or cold environments
LANOLIN
The Natural Healer
Softens, protects, and restores dry or cracked skin by forming a breathable, moisture-locking barrier.
Lanolin is a natural, waxy substance derived from sheep’s wool. It acts as one of nature’s most effective occlusives — sealing in moisture, smoothing rough texture, and helping damaged or dehydrated skin heal faster. Unlike heavier mineral-based occlusives, lanolin mimics the skin’s own lipids, providing long-lasting comfort and flexibility.
It has been used for centuries as a skin protectant and emollient, particularly for chapped lips, hands, and post-procedure care. Modern, purified lanolin is hypoallergenic and safe for most people, making it a go-to ingredient in barrier repair balms and healing ointments.
How does it work? Lanolin forms a semi-occlusive, breathable film over the skin that prevents water loss while still allowing the skin to exchange gases naturally. This balance helps maintain optimal hydration levels while protecting against dryness, friction, and environmental stress.
It also has a unique ability to absorb water — up to twice its weight — allowing it to both lock in and attract moisture. This makes lanolin especially beneficial for restoring elasticity and softness in rough, cracked, or compromised skin.
Additionally, lanolin naturally contains sterols and fatty acids that reinforce the skin barrier and support healing, making it ideal for repairing damaged areas and soothing irritation.
Side effects: Lanolin is well tolerated by most skin types but may cause mild irritation in individuals with wool allergies or sensitivities. Always patch-test before use if unsure. Highly refined, medical-grade lanolin significantly reduces the risk of reaction compared to unrefined or raw forms.
Choosing a product with Lanolin: Look for products containing medical-grade or pharmaceutical-grade lanolin for maximum purity and safety. Lanolin is often found in lip balms, healing salves, nipple creams, and barrier ointments.
For enhanced results, it can be paired with humectants like glycerin and emollients like shea butter or squalane to create a complete moisture-sealing formula.
Best suited for:
- Very dry, chapped, or cracked skin
- Lips, hands, heels, or elbows
- Post-procedure or irritated skin needing repair
- Harsh, cold, or windy climates
- Those seeking a natural, breathable occlusive
BEESWAX
The Natural Shield
Locks in moisture, protects against environmental stressors, and soothes dry, irritated skin with a breathable, protective layer.
Beeswax is a natural occlusive derived from honeybees. It has been used for centuries in skincare for its ability to seal in hydration, soften the skin, and protect against environmental damage. Rich in fatty acids, esters, and natural antioxidants, beeswax helps form a soft, flexible film that supports barrier repair while letting the skin breathe.
Unlike heavy synthetic occlusives, beeswax provides a light yet lasting protective effect — ideal for dry, sensitive, or chapped skin. Its natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties make it especially beneficial for soothing irritation and promoting healing.
How does it work? Beeswax works by forming a semi-occlusive barrier on the skin’s surface, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and maintaining moisture levels. This barrier also shields against external aggressors like wind, cold, and pollution, helping to keep the skin comfortable and resilient.
It’s naturally rich in vitamin A, which supports cell turnover and regeneration, while its humectant qualities attract a small amount of moisture to the surface of the skin. This makes beeswax both protective and subtly hydrating.
In formulations, beeswax also serves as a natural stabiliser and thickener, giving balms and creams their smooth, creamy consistency.
Side effects: Beeswax is generally safe and non-irritating for most skin types. However, it is not suitable for vegan formulations and may rarely cause reactions in those with bee product allergies. Always patch-test if you have known sensitivities to honey or propolis.
Choosing a product with Beeswax: Look for cosmetic-grade or organic beeswax in products such as lip balms, salves, and rich barrier creams. It pairs beautifully with shea butter, oils, and humectants like glycerin for a deeply protective, nourishing formula.
For those avoiding animal-derived ingredients, plant-based alternatives like candelilla or carnauba wax offer similar occlusive properties with a vegan-friendly profile.
Best suited for:
- Dry, chapped, or sensitive skin
- Lips, hands, elbows, or heels
- Skin exposed to cold, wind, or environmental stress
- Natural, clean beauty routines
- Mild irritation or rough texture needing protection
BEESWAX ALTERNATIVES (VEGAN BLENDS)
The Plant-Powered Barrier
Modern natural wax systems that create a smooth, breathable seal to lock in moisture, protect the barrier, and deliver a clean, ethical alternative to traditional beeswax.
Beeswax alternatives, sometimes called vegan wax blends, are plant-based combinations of natural waxes and emollient oils designed to mimic the structure and performance of beeswax. They offer the same soft occlusive protection and texture stability — without relying on animal-derived ingredients.
These blends are typically composed of Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Rice Bran Wax, Sunflower Wax, and hydrogenated plant oils that work together to create a flexible, conditioning film on the skin.
How do they work? Beeswax alternatives form a semi-occlusive layer that helps retain hydration while still allowing the skin to breathe. Their natural wax esters and fatty acids reinforce the lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and leaving skin soft and comforted.
Unlike pure plant waxes, which can be brittle on their own, these blended systems balance firmness with flexibility, giving a smooth, elegant texture that spreads evenly and melts at skin temperature.
They also help stabilise formulations and improve sensory feel — often replacing petrolatum or silicones in clean or vegan products.
Side effects: These blends are non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, and well tolerated by most skin types. Because they are naturally derived, some variation in texture or melting point may occur depending on the wax composition, but they rarely cause irritation or buildup.
Choosing a product with Vegan Wax Blends: Look for products that list Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Rice Bran Wax, or Sunflower Wax high on the INCI list, especially if paired with plant oils (like jojoba or squalane) or humectants (like glycerin) for balanced hydration.
You’ll often find these systems in lip balms, solid moisturisers, barrier creams, and clean beauty formulations marketed as “beeswax-free.”
Best suited for:
- Dry or chapped skin needing protective comfort
- Those seeking vegan
- Sensitive skin or post-treatment barrier repair
- Eco-conscious consumers preferring natural, renewable ingredients
- Everyday lip and hand care needing lightweight protection
CANDELILLA & CARNAUBA WAX
The Vegan Alternative
Plant-based occlusives that seal in moisture, smooth the skin, and protect against environmental stress with a lightweight, breathable finish.
Candelilla and carnauba waxes are natural plant-derived alternatives to beeswax — offering similar protective, moisture-locking benefits without animal origin.
Candelilla wax is derived from the leaves of the Euphorbia cerifera shrub native to Mexico, while carnauba wax comes from the leaves of the Copernicia prunifera palm in Brazil. Both are rich in long-chain fatty esters that help form a soft, flexible film over the skin, preventing dehydration and improving texture.
They are prized in modern formulations for their smooth application, elegant finish, and suitability for vegan and cruelty-free skincare.
How do they work? Both waxes act as semi-occlusive barriers, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while protecting the skin from external irritants.
- Candelilla wax forms a slightly lighter, more breathable film, ideal for facial use and daily moisturisers.
- Carnauba wax, often called the “queen of waxes,” has a higher melting point, offering stronger film-forming and water-resistant properties — perfect for balms and protective creams.
They also help stabilise formulations and add texture, giving creams and balms their smooth, non-greasy structure.
Side effects: Both waxes are well tolerated and non-comedogenic. They rarely cause irritation or sensitivity and are suitable for most skin types. Because of their firm texture, they are typically blended with softer emollients (like squalane or shea butter) for easier spreadability.
Choosing a product with Candelilla or Carnauba Wax: Look for vegan lip balms, creams, or barrier salves that use these waxes in place of beeswax. They are commonly combined with plant oils (like jojoba or almond oil) and butters (like cocoa or shea) to create nourishing, water-sealing protection.
Candelilla wax offers a more elegant, lightweight finish ideal for facial care, while carnauba wax excels in body care and long-lasting protective formulations.
Best suited for:
- Vegan or cruelty-free skincare routines
- Dry or chapped skin needing protection
- Daily moisturisers, lip balms, and barrier creams
- Sensitive skin that prefers natural, non-pore-clogging occlusives
- Harsh weather or outdoor exposure
Shea butter
The Deep Nourishing Shield
Richly emollient and semi-occlusive — softens, protects, and deeply nourishes dry or chapped skin while reinforcing the barrier.
Shea butter, extracted from the nuts of the Vitellaria paradoxa (shea) tree, is one of nature’s most effective and versatile skin protectants. Functioning as both an emollient and a mild occlusive, it forms a protective film that locks in moisture, shields the skin from external stressors, and provides long-lasting comfort and softness.
Beyond its barrier-sealing ability, shea butter delivers essential fatty acids (oleic, stearic, linoleic) and vitamins A and E, which help strengthen the skin’s lipid layer and promote healing. Its creamy texture makes it ideal for soothing rough, cracked, or irritated areas while providing a smooth, supple finish.
How does it work? Shea butter melts upon contact with the skin, coating the surface with a semi-occlusive layer that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhances lipid replenishment. Its rich fatty acid profile nourishes the barrier, improving elasticity and suppleness over time.
Additionally, its natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds — such as cinnamic acid esters and tocopherols — help calm irritation, reduce redness, and protect against environmental aggressors like wind and pollution.
Unlike heavier occlusives such as petrolatum, shea butter allows the skin to breathe while maintaining moisture retention, making it a favourite for both facial and body care.
Side effects: Shea butter is generally well tolerated, even by sensitive skin. However, its richness may feel too heavy or greasy for oily or acne-prone complexions. In rare cases, unrefined shea butter can clog pores if applied in thick layers to the face.
Refined or hydrogenated versions have a lighter texture and are less likely to cause congestion.
Choosing a product with Shea Butter: Look for unrefined (raw) shea butter if you want the full nutritional profile of natural vitamins and antioxidants, or refined versions for a smoother texture and neutral scent.
Shea butter appears in moisturisers, hand creams, barrier balms, and overnight masks — often alongside ceramides, squalane, or glycerin for complete hydration support.
For enhanced barrier repair, choose formulas that pair shea butter with cholesterol and fatty acids, recreating the skin’s natural lipid balance.
Best suited for:
- Dry, cracked, or rough skin
- Sensitive or reactive complexions
- Winter or harsh-climate protection
- Post-exfoliation or barrier repair care
- Hands, elbows, lips, and body areas prone to dryness
SQUALANE
The Lightweight Barrier Sealant
Lightweight, breathable, and skin-identical — locks in hydration, strengthens the barrier, and delivers silky, balanced protection.
Squalane is the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands. While it is best known as an emollient, squalane also functions as a light occlusive, forming a breathable film that prevents moisture loss (TEWL) and reinforces the skin’s natural barrier.
It offers all the protective benefits of heavier occlusives like mineral oil or petrolatum — but with a weightless, non-greasy texture that absorbs quickly. This makes squalane a favourite in modern skincare for achieving smooth, hydrated, and balanced skin without heaviness.
How does it work? Squalane mimics the structure of the skin’s natural sebum, allowing it to integrate seamlessly into the lipid barrier. Once applied, it creates a thin, invisible layer that locks in moisture while helping to prevent environmental dehydration.
It also enhances elasticity, smooths roughness, and supports the delivery of other active ingredients deeper into the skin. As an antioxidant, squalane helps neutralise free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV and pollution exposure.
Unlike many plant oils, squalane is chemically stable, meaning it resists oxidation and won’t go rancid — ensuring consistent performance over time.
Side effects: Squalane is non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, and fragrance-free, making it suitable for all skin types — including oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin. Adverse reactions are extremely rare.
Because it absorbs quickly, it may not feel occlusive enough for extremely dry or damaged skin unless layered with richer emollients or occlusives like shea butter or petrolatum.
Choosing a product with Squalane: Opt for 100% plant-derived squalane, ideally from sustainable sources such as sugarcane, olives, or rice bran. It can be used alone as a hydrating oil or within serums, moisturisers, and barrier-repair creams.
For enhanced results, pair squalane with humectants (like hyaluronic acid or glycerin) and emollients (like ceramides or fatty acids) to complete the hydration process from within and on the surface.
Best suited for:
- Normal, dry, or dehydrated skin
- Oily or acne-prone skin needing lightweight moisture
- Sensitive or reactive complexions
- Post-procedure or retinoid users needing gentle barrier support
- Everyday hydration with a silky, breathable finish
HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE
The Modern Synthetic Occlusive
Creates a weightless, non-greasy barrier that locks in moisture, enhances glide, and delivers a silky, cushiony finish.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (HPIB) is a high-performance synthetic emollient and occlusive often used as a modern alternative to mineral oil or silicones. It forms a smooth, protective film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) without heaviness, tackiness, or residue.
Its unique texture gives products a luxurious, “cushioned” slip — making it a staple in premium moisturisers, lip care, and barrier repair formulas. Because it is hydrogenated, it’s exceptionally stable and resistant to oxidation, ensuring long shelf life and consistent performance.
How does it work? Hydrogenated Polyisobutene forms a lightweight occlusive film that helps retain moisture while improving the spreadability and feel of skincare and cosmetic formulations. It fills micro-irregularities on the skin’s surface, leaving it smoother, softer, and more supple.
Unlike heavier occlusives, HPIB provides a non-occlusive feel — it allows the skin to breathe while maintaining hydration and reducing evaporation. It also acts as a carrier oil substitute, enhancing the penetration of active ingredients without interfering with their stability.
Its sensory benefits are especially valued: it gives formulas a dry, velvety touch similar to dimethicone but without the “silicone” label, making it popular in clean or silicone-free skincare lines.
Side effects: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is non-comedogenic, non-irritating, and hypoallergenic. It’s suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin. As a synthetic hydrocarbon, it does not oxidise or cause sensitivity, making it a safe option even for compromised or reactive complexions.
Choosing a product with Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: Look for it in moisturisers, lip balms, barrier creams, and makeup primers where a silky, smooth texture is desired. It’s often listed alongside synthetic esters or squalane in lightweight, hydrating formulations.
For barrier repair, it performs beautifully when paired with humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid) and emollients (like ceramides or fatty acids) to create a full hydration system.
Best suited for:
- Normal to dry skin needing lightweight barrier protection
- Sensitive or acne-prone skin that avoids heavy occlusives
- Silicone-free or clean formulations seeking a luxurious glide
- Lip care and leave-on moisturisers
- Daily use under makeup or sunscreen
DIMETHICONE
The Gentle Film Former
Locks in hydration, smooths texture, and protects the skin with a weightless, silky finish.
Dimethicone is a silicone-based occlusive widely used in dermatology for its ability to protect and smooth the skin without heaviness or greasiness. It forms a flexible, breathable layer that locks in moisture, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and shields against irritation and friction.
Unlike heavier occlusives such as petrolatum or lanolin, dimethicone offers a light, non-greasy texture — making it ideal for sensitive, oily, or acne-prone skin types. It’s hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, and frequently recommended by dermatologists for barrier repair and irritation prevention.
How does it work? Dimethicone forms a micro-thin, semi-occlusive film that keeps water within the outermost layer of the skin while still allowing it to breathe. This barrier helps smooth roughness, soften texture, and protect against external stressors such as pollution, wind, or friction.
Because it is inert and stable, dimethicone does not interact with other skincare actives like retinoids or acids. Instead, it enhances comfort and performance by reducing potential irritation and improving the spreadability of products. It also creates an instantly smoother, more even surface — which is why it’s a hero ingredient in primers and barrier creams.
Side effects: Dimethicone is extremely safe and well tolerated by all skin types. It does not clog pores or cause breakouts. However, using multiple silicone-heavy products without proper cleansing can sometimes trap debris on the surface (not in pores), so gentle daily cleansing is recommended.
Choosing a product with Dimethicone: Look for dimethicone in moisturisers, sunscreens, recovery creams, and primers formulated for dry, sensitive, or irritated skin. For those preferring a natural alternative, plant-based “green silicones” such as coco-caprylate or isoamyl laurate offer similar slip and barrier benefits with a lighter touch.
Dimethicone also pairs beautifully with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and emollients like ceramides or squalane — creating a complete hydration and protection system.
Best suited for:
- Sensitive or reactive skin
- Oily, combination, or acne-prone skin needing lightweight protection
- Skin exposed to friction or harsh climates
- Barrier repair and post-procedure recovery
POLYETHYLENE / MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
The Long-Lasting Barrier Film
Creates a protective, flexible film that seals in moisture, enhances texture, and adds lasting resilience to the skin.
Polyethylene and Microcrystalline Wax are synthetic and mineral-derived occlusives that form a solid, water-resistant barrier on the skin’s surface. While they are often used together in rich balms, ointments, and lip products, each plays a slightly different role: polyethylene provides smooth glide and structure, while microcrystalline wax adds flexibility and film strength.
Together, they work to lock in hydration, prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and protect against external stressors such as wind, cold, and pollution. They’re key to long-lasting formulations that stay put — ideal for compromised, dry, or chapped skin.
How does it work? These waxes create a semi-occlusive film that adheres gently to the skin, forming a continuous protective layer. Unlike heavier petrolatum, they leave behind a dry, non-greasy finish while still providing effective barrier protection.
Microcrystalline wax has a more elastic structure than traditional paraffin, which allows it to flex with the skin without cracking or flaking — maintaining comfort while sealing in moisture. Polyethylene enhances the texture and stability of products, giving them a smooth, polished consistency.
They also serve as texture enhancers, helping improve spreadability, consistency, and water resistance in both skincare and makeup.
Side effects: Both ingredients are inert, stable, and non-comedogenic, making them safe for most skin types. However, as synthetic or petroleum-derived waxes, they may not appeal to those seeking 100% natural formulations.
In rare cases, people with very oily skin may find wax-heavy products too occlusive for facial use.
Choosing a product with Polyethylene or Microcrystalline Wax: Look for these ingredients in lip balms, barrier creams, ointments, and healing salves where lasting protection and texture stability are key.
They are often paired with shea butter, lanolin, or plant oils to create balanced occlusive-emollient blends that soften while sealing in moisture.
These waxes also appear in SPF formulas and tinted balms, helping the product stay in place and resist melting or wear.
Best suited for:
- Severely dry, cracked, or chapped lips
- Barrier repair and recovery care
- Harsh or cold weather conditions
- Those preferring long-lasting, non-greasy protection
- Hands, heels, or rough body areas needing durable hydration
