Have You Heard of the 10–12 Step Skincare Routine?

Have You Heard of the 10–12 Step Skincare Routine?

At first glance, the idea of layering 10 or even 12 skincare products might sound excessive. But in the world of Korean beauty (K-beauty), it’s not about piling on—it’s about layering intentionally, hydrating deeply, and creating a moment of care that honors your skin’s rhythm.

This routine isn’t a strict rulebook. It’s a philosophy: skin thrives when it’s nourished with gentle, consistent support—not rushed, not punished, and definitely not stripped.

Let’s explore what this iconic ritual looks like, why science supports parts of it, and how to make it your own.

✨ The Classic Korean Skincare Routine:

Whether you follow 8, 10, or 12 steps, here’s the framework that defines this ritual:

1. Oil Cleanser

Removes SPF, makeup, and excess oil. It’s the first step of the double cleanse.

Even oily skin types benefit from oil cleansing—it dissolves sebum without disrupting the barrier.

2. Water-Based Cleanser

Removes sweat and residue. This ensures a clean canvas for the rest of your routine.

Choose a low-pH, gentle formula to avoid over-cleansing.

3. Exfoliator (2–3x/week)

Encourages cell turnover and smooth texture.

In K-beauty, exfoliation is mild—think enzymes, PHAs, or soft scrubs, never harsh acids.

4. Toner

Hydrates, balances pH, and preps skin for actives.

Unlike astringent toners, these are soft and watery—layerable like a drink of water for your skin.

5. Essence

A K-beauty signature: lightweight, hydrating, often infused with fermented ingredients.

Supports elasticity, hydration, and absorption of the next steps.

6. Serum / Ampoule

Targeted treatments for pigmentation, acne, dullness, or aging.

Ampoules are concentrated versions—used as needed for skin goals.

7. Sheet Mask (1–3x/week)

Soothes, hydrates, and forces you to pause.

A mindful moment and a hydration boost in one.

8. Eye Cream

Gentle formulas to hydrate and brighten the delicate eye area.

Tap in with your ring finger to avoid tugging.

9. Moisturizer

Seals in hydration, locks down your previous steps, and buffers the barrier.

Choose textures based on your skin type and season.

10. SPF (AM only)

Protects against UV, pigmentation, and inflammation.

No step matters more in the long run—K-beauty excels in elegant, wearable formulas.

Optional Steps to Make It 12

11. Mist or Booster – Enhances hydration before or after toner

12. Sleeping Pack – A nighttime sealing layer to lock in moisture and support overnight repair

🧪 What Does Science Say About 10+ Step Routines?

While it may sound like a trend, parts of the K-beauty philosophy align with research-backed skincare principles:

Layered hydration works. Humectants followed by emollients improve water retention and barrier strength【1】

Barrier repair matters. Ingredients like ceramides, squalane, cholesterol, and panthenol rebuild and protect the skin【2】

Targeted actives deliver results. When chosen carefully, actives like niacinamide, vitamin C, and azelaic acid reduce acne, pigmentation, and irritation【3】

SPF is essential. Daily sun protection is proven to reduce signs of aging and inflammation【4】

However, dermatologists also warn against:

  • Over-layering, which can lead to sensitivity
  • Fragrance overload, common in some K-beauty lines
  • Mixing too many strong actives, which may irritate or conflict

The takeaway? It’s not about quantity—it’s about intentional layering with skin-compatible ingredients.

Make It Your Own

This routine isn’t meant to be rigid. It’s fluid. You might do 4 steps on a busy morning, 7 in winter, or the full 10 as a Sunday ritual.

  • Have sensitive skin? Focus on hydration, ceramides, and SPF.
  • Dealing with acne? Build a consistent core, then introduce actives gently.
  • Pregnant or postpartum? Simplify and swap to barrier-first, fragrance-free products.

The K-beauty mindset is about respecting the skin’s rhythm, not overwhelming it.

💚 The KNOW TO GLOW Perspective

Skincare doesn’t need to be extreme to be effective. Whether you’re a minimalist or a ritualist, the heart of Korean skincare is something we deeply align with: hydration, patience, and gentleness.

If it feels nourishing to layer with intention, do it. If your skin thrives with fewer steps, honor that. The best skincare routine is the one you can repeat with love.


📚 References

  1. Lodén, M. (2003). Topical emollients in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol.
  2. Elias, P. M., et al. (2008). Stratum corneum lipids and barrier function. J Clin Invest.
  3. Draelos, Z. D. (2018). Cosmeceuticals and the skin barrier. Dermatol Clin.
  4. Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.