

How to treat blackheads & whiteheads
Sabina JasinskiIf you’ve ever noticed small bumps or tiny plugs on your skin—especially around the nose, chin, or forehead—you’re dealing with comedones. These non-inflammatory forms of acne are incredibly common, but that doesn’t mean you have to live with them.
This guide explains exactly what blackheads and whiteheads are, why they form, and how to treat them without damaging your skin barrier.
WHAT ARE BLACKHEADS & WHITEHEADS?
Blackheads and whiteheads are both types of comedonal acne, which occurs when hair follicles become clogged with:
- Sebum (oil)
- Dead skin cells
- Environmental debris or makeup residue
Unlike inflammatory acne (pimples, cysts), comedones are not red or painful. But they can still stretch pores, dull your skin’s texture, and lead to breakouts if not managed properly.
🔍 TYPES OF COMEDONES
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1. Whiteheads (Closed Comedones)
These form when the pore remains closed over the clog, creating a small white or flesh-colored bump under the skin.
Often seen on the cheeks, chin, or along the jawline.Best Actives: BHA (like salicylic acid), Retinoids
Use BHA to unclog pores and retinoids to improve cell turnover. Avoid vitamin C during active breakouts—it may irritate. -
2. Blackheads (Open Comedones)
These occur when the clogged pore stays open, and the contents oxidise, turning dark.
Usually found on the nose, chin, forehead, and sometimes the chest or back.
Best Actives: BHA, Retinoids
Salicylic acid (BHA) penetrates oil and clears pores; retinoids help prevent new clogs. AHA can be used occasionally to smooth texture.
evidence-backed treatments
1. CLEANSE EFFECTIVELY—BUT GENTLY
Start with the basics: clear away excess oil and impurities without stripping the skin.
🟢 Look for cleansers with:
- Salicylic Acid (BHA): Penetrates into pores to dissolve oil
- LHA (Lipo-hydroxy Acid): A milder cousin of BHA, gentle for sensitive skin
- Clay or charcoal: Helps absorb excess sebum
🟡 Avoid harsh scrubs or foaming cleansers with sulfates—they can worsen oil production and irritation.
2. EXFOLIATE REGULARLY TO PREVENT CLOGGING
Consistent, chemical exfoliation keeps pores clear and skin texture smooth:
- Salicylic Acid (2%): Gold standard for oily or congested skin
- Glycolic or Lactic Acid (AHAs): Brighten and soften skin
- Azelaic Acid: Gentle on sensitive skin and helps refine pores
Start 2–3x per week and adjust based on how your skin responds.
3. USE NON-COMEDOGENIC MOISTURISERS
Yes, you still need hydration—even if your skin is oily or acne-prone. Dehydrated skin may produce more oil, worsening comedones.
🟢 Look for moisturisers with:
- Niacinamide: Balances oil, calms redness, and supports the skin barrier
- Squalane or gel-based hydrators: Lightweight and non-clogging
- Zinc PCA: Helps regulate sebum production
4. TARGET WITH TREATMENT SERUMS
Adding a pore-refining serum or treatment step can reduce the appearance of blackheads and prevent new ones:
- Retinoids (Retinol or Adapalene): Increase cell turnover, prevent clogged pores
- Niacinamide: Reduces oiliness and pore visibility
- Clay masks (1–2x/week): Detox and decongest congested areas
Be patient—retinoids can take 6–12 weeks for visible improvement but are worth the consistency.
🌞 MORNING: Keep Pores Clear and Balanced
1. Gentle cleanser with salicylic acid or LHA
Cleansing with pore-penetrating actives helps dissolve sebum and prevent future clogs.
- Salicylic acid (BHA): Ideal for oily, acne-prone skin—goes deep into pores
- LHA (lipo-hydroxy acid): A gentler option that offers slow exfoliation, suitable for sensitive skin
💡 Use 1x/day if your skin is reactive; alternate with a non-active cleanser as needed.
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2. Niacinamide or azelaic acid serum
- Niacinamide: Regulates oil production, minimises the appearance of pores, and calms redness
- Azelaic acid: Helps reduce the buildup that causes comedones and gently brightens PIH
Choose based on skin goals—or alternate them throughout the week.
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3. Lightweight, oil-free moisturiser
Keeps skin hydrated without contributing to clogged pores. Look for non-comedogenic formulas with ingredients like:
- Glycerin
- Zinc PCA
- Aloe vera or panthenol (for soothing)
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4. Broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 (non-comedogenic)
Daily sun protection is key to preventing inflammation and dark marks left behind by blackheads or whiteheads.
💡 Opt for gel-based or mineral SPF for oily or breakout-prone skin.
🌙 EVENING:Exfoliate, Renew, and Calm
1. Cleanser
Stick with a salicylic acid cleanser or rotate with a gentle, fragrance-free formula to avoid over-cleansing. This preps the skin for your active treatment step.
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2. Retinoid or BHA serum (alternate nights if needed)
- Retinoids (retinol, retinal, adapalene): Increase cell turnover and prevent clogged pores from forming
- BHA (salicylic acid serums): Dissolve existing blockages and refine texture
Alternate to avoid irritation. If you're just starting, try actives 2–3x/week and build up tolerance.
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3. Gel-based or barrier-repair moisturiser
Hydrates while supporting the skin’s ability to tolerate actives.
Choose:
- Gel moisturisers with hyaluronic acid or panthenol for oilier skin
- Light creams with ceramides or niacinamide for combo or dry-prone areas
Bonus Tip:
Use a clay mask 1–2x/week on congested areas like the T-zone to:
- Absorb excess oil
- Gently detox clogged pores
- Temporarily refine skin texture and reduce shine
🟢 Look for kaolin or bentonite with soothing additions like green tea or aloe to avoid overdrying.
⏱️ WHEN TO EXPECT RESULTS
- BHA & salicylic acid: Smoother skin and fewer blackheads in 2–4 weeks
- Retinoids: More significant pore improvement in 6–12 weeks
- Niacinamide: Reduced oiliness and redness in 4–8 weeks
Stick to your routine and avoid squeezing or picking—which can stretch pores or lead to PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
🧘🏾♀️ LIFESTYLE HABITS TO SUPPORT CLEAR SKIN
- Always remove makeup thoroughly at night
- Clean pillowcases and phone screens regularly
- Avoid comedogenic hair or skincare products around the forehead and jawline
- Manage stress—it can impact oil production and skin turnover
- Eat a skin-friendly diet (low in dairy/sugar, rich in antioxidants)
❌ COMMON MYTHS ABOUT BLACKHEADS & WHITEHEADS
“Blackheads are dirt.”
❌ Not true. The dark color is oxidised sebum, not dirt or poor hygiene.
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“You can scrub them away.”
❌ Nope. Physical exfoliants may cause microtears. Stick with chemical exfoliants.
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“Oily skin doesn’t need moisturiser.”
❌ Incorrect. All skin types need hydration. Use non-comedogenic formulas instead.
💚 Final Thoughts
Comedones are stubborn—but entirely manageable with the right routine. Focus on consistent cleansing, gentle exfoliation, and targeted treatments to reduce and prevent clogged pores without damaging your barrier.
Because clear, balanced skin isn’t about being aggressive—it’s about being smart, steady, and skin-aware.
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